Blog

BROADLEAF WEED CONTROL
Mon. Mar. 8, 2010

We are coming off the nicest weather weekend of 2010 and do not be surprised if you begin to see those winter annual broadleaves, such as clover and chickweed, popping up. Even if you have made your pre-emerge application be aware that this will not kill anything that is already there. Our recomendation for spring broadleaf control is to spray them out of your turf. There are many selective broadleaf herbicides on the market. Selective in that they will not hurt your existing turf grass, they will only kill the broadleaf weeds. These herbicides can damage cool season turf if you do not follow all label directions, so make sure you understand how to mix and what rate to spray before you get started. If you are not 100% confident you can always call Dickens Supply and we will walk you through it. If you have warm season turf with broadleaf issues, you need to hurry and apply, or wait until after transition. Again, the label will tell you that you should not spray a selective broadleaf herbicide to warm season turf while it is in transition. We recomend a pre-emerge with fertlizer followed by liquid broadleaf control as needed. We do carry a granular weed and feed product but you need to understand how this product works and when to apply. I will discuss granular weed and feed next week, in the meantime apply your pre-emegrge with fertilizer and enjoy the spring warm up. If you have any questions concerning your lawn and landscape, my name is Brad Wilkinson and you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply, 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com.

I think it is safe to assume that all of you are as eager as me for spring to get here! This has been a long, cold and snowy winter. I do enjoy the snow, I mean if it is going to be cold, there might as well be snow on the ground. As the first of March is now here, I am ready for warmer, sunnier weather. That spring warm up also means the beginning of weed control season. It is much easier to get a handle on weeds before the fact with a good pre-emergence herbicide application than it is to wait and try to control them later in the season. Normally in our area, we recommend a pre-emergence application from mid-February to mid-March. But, much like our weather, nothing is normal about this year. The label on Dimension, for example, gives until April 15 to make an effective application. So this year, as spring is taking it's time don't be in a huge rush to apply your pre-emerge, there is still time. Now, if you want to go ahead and put out your pre-emerge, that is ok too, but just be aware that the window will have an extended opening this year. Do not forget that you will need to make a follow up application later in the season as well to get those late season and second generation summer annuals. If you have any questions regarding pre-emergence herbicide or anything related to your turf and landscape, my name is Brad Wilkinson and you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply, 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com.

Eager to get back outside? Well...during the warmer days of winter is a great time to prune ornamentals. Now through mid-March is the ideal time for this kind of project while plants are going through their natural hibernation. Pruning while dormant helps to reduce stress and forces new growth to rejuvenate in the spring. This is especially beneficial to plants that have a tendency to become overgrown like Abelia, Viburnum , and Privet. "Thinning out" ornamental trees like Crape Myrtle to open up the canopy allows for increased light and air circulation. When a plant becomes too dense...this can jeopardize the health and appearance of plants. Be careful of pruning those flowering shrubs such as Lilacs, Forsythia, and Rhododendron for they bloom on previuos seasons' wood. Prune these after bloom. However, shrubs producing flowers from new wood respond very well to dormant pruning...creating vigorous bloom. Ornamental grasses need to be cut back this time of year also. Here is a landscapers' tip for cutting back larger grasses: Tie up grasses with a piece of twine gathering all of the threads together in a tight bundle...then cut across about 6 to 12 inches from the ground depending upon the size. This makes the job and clean-up a lot faster and easier. I'm Jessica Deras with Dickens Turf & Landscape Supply and I can be reached at the Nashville location (615-227-1111) should you have any questions regarding dormant pruning. Dickens also carries a wide variety of tools to help you with all of your pruning needs!

It is that time of year when, even though there is snow on the ground righ now, we must begin to prepare for the growing season. As far as your turf goes, your first round of pre-emerge is just around the corner. Remember, weed control applications such as pre-emerge have little to do with soil test recomendations and balancing soil nutrients. With that being said, now is an excellent time to have your soil testing done. If you made a dormant feed application, theese nutrients should already be soluable and you are just in front of your spring pre-emerge application, this is the perfect soil testing time. This is a perfect time because you will not be sending in fertilizer with your soil test. We already know the analysis of the fertilizer you applied. So, just before your next application is the perfect time to take a soil sample to avoid sending in a dose of fertilizer that will give you misleading results. One of the services we provide at Dickens Supply is to put your soil test recomendations in calendar form so you know what, when and how much of each product to apply to maintain adequate soil nutrient levels. Don't let the weather lull you to sleep, in turf and landscape management you must think a season ahead! if you have any questions about soil testing or anything else in reguards to your turf and landscape, my name is Brad Wilkinson and you can reach me at the Cool Springs Location of Dickens Turf and Landscape supply, 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com

Now is an excellent time to dormant feed your turf. Cool season grasses such as Fescue and Bluegrass and warm season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia will all benefit greatly from a dormant feed. A dormant feed should consist of a 100% organic fertilize. By applying this much needed organic matter and carbon you are replenishing the nutrients that were used up durring the last growing season. It is a good idea to make this application between now and mid February. By hitting this application time frame you ensure that the much needed nourishment will be in place when the soil warms up and the turf begins to grow. Also, with the spring pre-emerge application coming up you do not want to run the risk of over fertilizing. If have any questions about dormant feeding or any other turf and landscape questions, you can contact me, Brad Wilkinson, at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com. Thanks.

I hope that all of you had a great holiday season and let us be the last to wish you a Happy New Year! You can expect a weekly blog update from now on. As spring gets closer there are going to be several time sensitive applications that you will want to be aware of both in the lawn and landscape. Today we are going to talk about a very important landscape application, the application of dormant oil. And, you guessed it, now is the time. Dormant oil will help smother out any eggs that are on your plants waiting on warmer weather to hatch. Dormant oil is very affective on scale and a lot of other hard to control insects. Dormant oil is a very affordable insurance policy that will help you avoid a great deal of in season insect damage. You will want to make this application now and again in mid February. My name is Brad Wilkinson and I work at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply. You can reach me at 615-371-2493 or Brad@DickensSupply.com. Thanks.

The staff here at Dickens Supply hope that everyone had a wonderful Christmas holiday and wish you a great new year! We want to thank you for your business in 2009 and look forward to serving you in 2010 for all of your turf, landscape, and equipment needs. After all of the hustle and bustle of the holiday season...the harshest months of winter begin and things start to settle down a bit. During these slow times when work is not as plentiful and lawn needs are limited...it is the best time to have equipment maintenance taken care of. The last problem needed during the beginning of spring take off is cranky equipment. You're lawn mower and two cycle equipment will be thanking you and rewarding you in the spring if the right steps are taken now towards proper winterization. Our certified mechanics are here to help you with a thorough tune-up which includes: check spark plugs and air filter, change the oil and oil filter, sharpen blades, bearings /throttle cables lubricated, tire and wheel check, and belt condition. Fuel is another area of concern for both four and two cycle engines. Old fuel should be drained to prevent damage to lines and carburetor. Or an alternative to this is to add a gas stabilizer into the tank to keep gasoline fresh longer. Once all of the internal parts are conditioned...lastly... giving your equipment a good cleaning on the outside will promote longevity as well. Oil build-up and caked on grass will affect air cooling efficiency and trap moisture causing rust. So take this as a simple reminder that just beacuse it's the dead of winter doesn't mean you can't do something for your lawn! We are happy to help and should you have any questions concerning your equipment tune-up...John Jordan can be reached at our Murfreesboro location...869-0210, Brad in Brentwood 371-2493, or Richard in Nashville 227-1111.

I hope that all of you had a nice Thanksgiving and I hope you are gearing up for a wonderful Christmas. This is a great time of year to look outside at your lawn and landscape or drive by your house in both directions and make note of what you see. If you have a warm season turf, is it clean with no green showing? If not, you can apply a glyphosate based product, like Round Up, right now to kill any unwanted weeds without harm to your warm season turf. If you have a cool season turf, does it look weathered and weak? If so this is an excellent time to apply a high nitrogen fertilizer with a slow release component to liven up those wilted blades. An even better choice may be to use an organic based fertilizer that is blended with some readily available nitrogen, not only to liven up your weathered looking turf, but also to aid in building your soil with organics in preperation for the upcoming growing season. Now is a great time to finish any leaf removal from those hard to fall leaves. If you have some decidious trees and shrubs this is a good time to prune and shape. A freshing up of your mulch would make things look a little newer as well. If you are planning on having a get together this holiday season at your house or if you just want things to look as nice as possible these are some good starting tips. If you just let things go, no one will notice as it is winter and things are supposed to be dormant looking, right? While this may be true, you can keep things looking manicured and fresh all season long. It is so nice to notice a lawn and landscape that looks great this time of year, when it shouldn't. My name is Brad Wilkinson and you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply at 615-371-2493 or by e-mial at Brad@DickensSuipply.com. Thanks!

The holiday season is already upon us. This has been an odd year to say the least. We had a long cool spring, a mild and wet summer, and a very friendly fall with above normal temperatures. This has also been an up and down year economicly. All that being said.... you all have continued to support Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply. You have trusted us to bring you the solutions that you need. From all of us here at Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply, we say thank you! Thank you for your business! We are all very thankful to be at Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply and to be in the position to serve you. Have a very happy and safe holiday season. If you have any questions or comments, my name is Brad Wilkinson and you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape supply 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com.

Testing your soil is the most important first step in establishing a healthy lawn and landscape. Think about this....when you go to the doctor for an illness....you have all the symptoms to show for it on the outside but the doctor needs to know what's going on internally to know how to treat it. Often, we tend to focus more on trying to treat the symptoms rather than the problem. Soil testing is a similar process by which elements are measured to determine the correct type and amounts of recommended fertilizer. Testing reveals your soil pH, which if becomes imbalanced...can directly affect the availability of nutrients to plant life. Fertilizers can also be over applied causing harmful effects on the environment. Knowing your soil make-up takes the guesswork out of maintaining your landscape properly and in turn will be cost effective for you... eliminating the waste of money spent on unnecessary amendments. So how and when do you go about submitting a soil sample? Easy. Take a soil probe, spade, or shovel to collect 6 to 8 samples at a 6 inch depth. Samples should be taken in a sporadic pattern throughout your yard or in beds. Note: lawn samples should be seperate from landscape bed or vegetable garden samples. Once you have collected all of the cores from the area...mix together in a plastic bag and submit as is. Soil samples can be taken anytime when soil is workable and preferably in the spring or fall. Fall soil testing will allow ample time for preparing a plan for the spring. Avoid the rush and get your sample in today! Please call me, Jessica Deras, at Brentwood 615-371-2493 or Murfreesboro location 615-869-0210...if you have any questions.

If you have been waiting on the weather to break to do your fall lawn renovation and now that we are seeing great weather in the Nashville area you are afraid that it is too late, we have got good news for you, IT IS NOT TOO LATE! Cool season grasses such as Turf Type Tall Fescue, have optimal germination at soil temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees. As I have measured the last few days, our soil temps are at about 57 degrees. A 57 degree soil temperature is perfect for cool season turf germination. At this point in the season, soil temperature is much more important than air temperature. Soil is a buffer, it will resist change and not change a lot over the course of a year any way. So that being said, you can still have great success seeding cool season greasses even this late. Fertility requirements change a little this late in the season and we can walk you through that part of it at any one of our 3 locations, Murfreesboro, Nashville or Cool Springs, or over the phone. If you have any other lawn or landscape questions you can reach me, Brad, at the Cool Springs office at 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com.

Autumn leaves are just beginning to fall and now is the time to get started with raking them up. It's tempting to just let them lie on the lawn for awhile, but here are a couple of good reasons why you should remove them. First...if you can't see your lawn, the sun can't either. It doesn't take long for leaf pile up to cause stress. Smothering of the lawn by leaves can cause dead spots that might take most of the next season to recover. Second...neglected leaves on the lawn start a breeding ground for fungi and insects. After hibernating in your leaf pile all winter...they will be ready to have a party at your place in the Spring! This year, start your fall clean-up with a plan. Professionals let equipment do all of the work for them with backpack blowers, vacuums, and mowers. For a homeowner, a simple hand-held blower, rakes, and a tarp should get the job done. However, finding a way to dispose of them afterwards can be a problem. If you're an avid gardener, they can be used for composting. Or...visit your local lawn and landscape supplier to purchase a mulching kit for your mower. After pileing up the leaves...just mow over them a few times to shred into tiny pieces. Mulched leaves can actually serve as a "return of nutrients" to the soil. Should you have any further questions regarding leaf removal and need assistance in gathering all of the necessary tools...please call Jessica Deras at Dickens Turf & Landscape Supply of Cool Springs 615-371-2493 or in Murfreesboro 615-869-0210.

Mulching is one of the easiest and most beneficial steps for your landscape. In the spring and summer, mulching helps control weeds and retain moisture. In fall, mulching holds a different purpose. During the winter months ahead, temperatures change rapidly causing the ground to freeze and thaw. This forces the roots of plants up from the soil and sometimes exposing them to winter injury. Mulch acts as an insulation for the soil and plant roots. It retains soil heat, which in turn protects the roots and also helps plants to go into winter with more moisture. Soil under mulch does not freeze as deeply so plants will continue to absorb water throughout the season and avoid drying out from winter winds. Before application, make sure you have cleaned out old mulch because leaving it can cause problems with disease, insects, and can smother landscape plants if too thick. A two to three inch layer is adequate enough and should not be piled high against stems or trunks. Mulching can be done with several different materials such as pine fines, shredded hardwood, pine straw, and compost. Please call me, Jessica Deras, at Dickens Turf & Landscape Supply of Cool Springs 615-371-2493 or Murfreesboro 615-869-0210 should you have any further questions regarding fall mulching.

As cooler temperatures approach and the beautiful transformation of fall leaves begins to unfold....the colorful abundance of summer annuals start to look tired and eventually turn brown with the first freeze. I am often asked if anything can be planted to take their place. The answer is yes! Pansies and Violas are a hardy replacement for annual beds. Pansies can be planted now along with your spring bulbs and will last through next spring. Although Pansies will not grow equally in height compared to summer flowers...the pallette of color choices is endless and once established provide a thick, swath of bright blooms. However, it is important to note that there are important things to remember when planting fall flowers because their nutritional requirements differ from warm season bedding plants. First,roto-till bed space and amend with a granular mycorrhizae, preferably endo-mycorrhizae for flowers. Mycorrhizae help the plant absorb nutrients and provide resistance against stress. Second,incorporate a granular fungicide specifically for preventing root rot. Pansies are trying to grow and flourish during cold, wet weather which are desirable conditions for harboring root infections if left untreated. Thirdly, topdress with a nitrate nitrogen based fertilizer. The reason for this is that the warm season soil bacteria that normally make the conversion from ammonical nitrogen to the nitrate form of nitrogen, which Pansies prefer, are dormant. Because of this dormancy, applying ammonia based nitrogen on Pansies in the winter will often result in a buildup of ammonia and toxicity to the plants. Also leaving little to no nitrates available to the plants for food. Once these steps are completed mulch them with a pine fines type mulch and enjoy! Should you have any further questions concerning fall flower planting, my name is Jessica Deras and I can be reached at Dickens Turf & Landscape Supply of Cool Springs 371-2493 or Murfreesboro 869-0210.

Hello all! With all the talk about fall lawn renovation on Cool Season Turf, we sometimes forget about those brave souls who have jumped overboard and have Warm Season Turf, such as Bermuda Grass or Zoysia Grass, in their lawn. There are some things that need to be done in the fall before dormancy sets in. You will need to apply a pre-emergence herbicide. This will help eliminate any winter annual weeds such as poa-annua. A dormant Warm Season Turf is like bare dirt in the winter and it will not compete with any winter time weeds. It is my opinion that a dormant Warm Season Turf looks nice in the fall and winter if it is clean. Just a few little weeds can make that dormant stand look bad. You will also want to apply a high potassium fertilizer before dormancy. Potassium late in the season offers many benefits to Warm Season turf including helping the plants to harden off in order to survive the winter. If you have had problems in the past with Spring Dead Spot in Bermuda Grass, or Zoysia Patch in Zoysia Grass you will need to apply your fungicide in the fall. The symptoms will not show up until spring but the fungus occurs in the fall and that is when you will need to control it. Once Warm Season Turf has gone dormant you can spray out any weeds with Glyphosate based product such as Round-Up. In the transition zone you are safe to spray Glyphosate in late December through January. I hope this is beneficial information for those who have or are thinking about converting to Warm Season Turf. If you have any questions on this topic or anything turf and landscape related my name is Brad Wilkinson and you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply 615-371-2493 or by e-mail Brad@DickensSupply.com.

Fall is the best time for planting... not only for your cool season turf grass but also for ornamental landscape plants. Fall is the best time for planting for several reasons, a few of which I will outline here. Plants transpire much less in fall. This lack of water loss will help the plant avoid tranplant stress. With the heat and humidity of summer behind us, the plants can focus their energy on root development as opposed to just trying to survive. Adequate soil moisture will still need to be applied to avoid drying out from fall/winter winds. Follow these simple steps for fall planting to ensure success. 1. Dig the hole 2x the size of the root ball of your plant. 2. Add any soil amendments to your back fill soil as recommended by your local turf and landscape supplier. 3. Place your plant in the hole so that the root ball is slightly above the soil surface. 4. Add a thin layer of mulch no more than 2 inches deep. If you have any questions you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply, 615-371-2493, or the Murfreesboro location 615-869-0210 or by e-mail at Jessica@DickensSupply.com

We have had an outstanding year here in middle Tennessee for growing cool season turf. Mild temperatures and plenty of rain have made for ideal growing conditions all year long. Most cool season lawns (fescue, bluegrass) look wonderful right now. The question I have been asked over and over again as fall lawn renovation approaches is "do I need to aerify and over seed this year or just fertilize what I already have?". The answer is yes, yes and yes. Aerification releaves compaction, aides in the break down of thatch and it allows the most important nutrient in the root zone, oxygen, to enter back in to the root zone. You will also need to over seed at a minimum of 4 pounds per 1000 square feet to compensate for the natural life cycle of your turf grass plants. You will also want to make sure and fertilize your existing plants. The application of a starter fertilizer is primarily to feed your new turf grass plants. You will want to follow this application up with a good winterizer, slow release fertilizer that will feed existing as well as new plants all through out the winter. I hope this information is helpful to you and if have any questions you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com

I am often asked about when the best time to kill weeds would be. My answer is that the best time to kill weeds is when they are present. There are a wide variety of selective weed control options on the market today, most of which when used according to label directions will be quite effective. The only problem with selective weed control this late in the year is soil residual. Most selective herbicides have a 4 to 6 week soil residual that will not allow new seed germination. If you have any last minute weed issues your best bet is to use Round-Up or a generic version containing 41% glyphosate. Glyphosate's soil residual is very minimal. You will only need to wait about 5 to 7 days after application to over seed. Glyphosate is non selective, meaning it will kill any plant it touches. This means you may kill some of your desirable turf grass. This should not be too big of an issue if you are careful in your application and if you getting ready to over seed any way you will be replacing those lost plants and then some. Either way you look at it, using selective or non-selective herbicide you are going to have dead patches of weeds so you might as well use a glyphosate based, non selective herbicide to avoid the extended soil residual. I hope this helps you with your last minute weed control efforts. If you ahve any questions you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply, 615-371-2493 or by e-mail Brad@DickensSupply.com.

As promised in an earlier blog, I am going to explain a simple way to calibrate your spreader for seed and fertilizer applications. You must have a rough estimate of the square footage of your lawn and you need to know how many pounds of seed and fertlizer you want to apply per 1000 square feet. To make this workout for our purposes here, we will use a 10,000 square foot lawn. We have a 50 pound bag of Gold Standard fescue seed and a 50 pound bag of 9-12-6 organic based starter fertilizer. We will assume that we are wanting to apply at a rate of 5 pounds per 1000 square feet of both the seed and fertilizer. First, measure out a rectangle shape out in your lawn that is 1000 square feet (10x100, 20x50 etc.). Next, using a bathroom scale or whatever you have accessable, weigh out 5 pounds of seed. Put this 5 pounds of seed in your spreader. If you are seeding fescue or Rye grass you will want to set your spreader about 5/8 of the way open. For example, if your spreader has settings of 1 to 10, set your spreader on about 6.5. (If you are seeding Bluegrass, call me because your rate and spreader setting will be much different). Next, spread the seed out on the previously measured 1000 square feet. After you have covered the area if you have seed left in the hopper you need to open your spreader up a little more, if you run out of seed too early, you will need to shut your spreader down a little. You are now calibrated for your seed application. You will need to follow the same steps for the fertlizer calibration. The only difference will be the initial setting. You will want to start out at about 3/8 of the way open for your fertilizer application. This is a very basic way to calibrate your spreader. If you follow theese steps but still do not feel comfortable with the outcome, feel free to contact me for more information. I can be reached at the Cool Springs office of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply 615-371-2493 or by e-mail Brad@DickensSupply.com

As fall lawn renovation gets into full swing it is important to know how much seed you need. First of all, you need to know the square footage of your lawn. You do not need know it exact, but a close estimate will do. If your lawn is in really good shape, I mean if you are even thinking that you do not need any seed at all, you should seed at a rate of 4 pounds per one thousand square feet. It is my opinion that anything less that 4 pounds will not give enough seed per square foot to make a noticiable difference. On a cool season turf, you need to over seed at a rate of at least 4 pounds per one thousand square feet every year to compensate for the natural life cycle of the turf grass plants. On the other side of that rate is the "bare dirt" rate. If you have a new lawn or if you are doing a total kill, you need to seed at a rate of 10 to 12 pounds per one thousand square feet. If you have a so-so lawn somewhere between the 4 and 12 pound rate will be fine. A lot of the time, if you are in between rates, you can round the amount of seed you need up or down to fit the size of bag it is available in. I hope this helps, we will talk about spreader calibration in the next blog, Friday, September 11. If you have any questions, you can reach me at 615-371-2493 or by e-mail Brad@DickensSupply.com.

It is that time of year again. Cooler temps and football but also fall aerification and overseeding. It is important to remember the true benefits of fall aerification. Core aerification actually pulls a plug out of the ground and ejects the plug onto the surface. This is a far superior method to solid tine, slit type or spike aerification. The purpose of aerification is to relieve compaction, oxygenate the root zone and open up the soil surface for amendment application. The most important nutrient in the root zone is oxygen so you can not "over aerify". You do not want your seeds to fall in the aerification holes. That is an important point to remember. Seeds that are burried that far under the soil surface will rot before they germinate. To avoid this from happening follow these steps: 1. Core aerify the soil. 2. Add any organics or soil amendments. 3. Drag the cores in with an old pallet, box spring or field drag. You could also use a dethatching power rake at this step to bust up and redistribute the cores and dethatch. 4. apply your seed. 5. Lightly drag the seed in to ensure seed to soil contact. 6. Water frequently. 7. Apply a slow release starter fertilize 7 to 10 days later or after you see new seeds germinating. I hope this blog helps you in your fall lawn renovation project. If you have any questions you can reach me at the Cool Springs location of Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply, 615-371-2493 or by e-mail at Brad@DickensSupply.com.

When purchasing seed for your fall overseeding project, there will some very valuable information on the seed tag that you should be familiar with. First of all, check the varieties. If the bag says "Professional Fescue Mix" you want to make sure that all of the varieties in the bag are fescue. Next is the seed germination percentage. Anything at or above 90% is fine. With 450000 to 500000 seeds per pound of turf type tall fescue, 90% or higher will give you an excellent stand of turf. Next is other crop seed. Other crop seed is any other seed type that may have been found durring testing. This should be 0%. Anything above 5% has to be listed in the variety. Inert matter is dirt, seed hulls and castings that will not affect your seed in any way. Lastly is the weed seed and noxious weeds found. THEESE SHOULD BE ZEROS. You do not want to introduce any weeds, much less noxious weeds into your lawn. When searching for seed, most of the time you will get what you pay for so be careful with the great deals you will see this fall and know you're seed tag! If you have a questions you can reach me at 615-371-2493 or Brad@DickensSupply.com

My name is Brad Wilkinson and I am the location manager for Dickens Turf and Landscape Supply in Cool Springs. It is that time of year where we all in "hold on mode". We are experiencing some of the hottest temps of the season and also we are a bit drier than we have been all year. I have people asking me all of the time about a plan or a program, that is a service that we offer at Dickens Supply and it all starts with a soil test. Bring in a sample and let's get the ball rolling. Also, as overseed time approaches you will need to address any last minute weed control issues. You need to be careful in your herbicide selection this late in the year as to avoid any soil residual that may affect seed germination. Things are shaping up for an awesome fall for everyone! If you have any questions you can reach me at 615-371-2493 or Brad@DickensSupply.com

I have some nutsedge in my yard now. I am spraying selective herbicide to control the nutsedge and am using another selective herbicide to eleminate other weeds in my turf. My turf, which is fescue, is looking great except for some weeds. I want to eliminate these weeds now in preparing for some overseeding in late August.

I have started a vegetable garden this year for the first time in 10 years. I have been using Monty's liquid fertilizer and Superthrive. I try spraying in morning, although I have drenched my roots as well. I use Monty's and Superthrive on my annuals and perennials as well. My plants look better than any neighbor. I have plenty of fruit on my vegetables.

I'm the owner of Dickens. From time to time we (my employees and I) will be posting relevant issues related to turf, landscaping and turf equipment. If at any time you have a question, concern or comment just email me at info@DickensSupply.com and I will post (if relevant and appropriate). Thanks

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